Cozy up and knit with the chairman of the Tortured Poets Department. This cardigan is a labor of love and I wanted to share my charts and notes with you! This blog post covers all of the instructions for this cardigan including my charts - it is not graded to any other size. You can get this pattern in a PDF for free on Ravelry if you prefer.
Size: This sweater is 44” in body circumference. For me it fits with 6” of ease on a 38” bust.
Yarn: Worsted weight - Knitting For Olive Heavy Merino in Pearl Grey - 12 balls for my size.
Needles: US #7 needles (4.5mm) for the body and sleeves. US #5 needles (3.75mm) for the ribbing on the sleeves and neckline.
Gauge: Average cable gauge 22 sts = 4 inches. In stockinette gauge is 18 sts = 4 inches. Row gauge is 24 sts = 4 inches.
Notions: Three 1" buttons, three removable stitch markers (or more to separate cables), tapestry needle, scissors.
Note on this cardigan: This cardigan is challenging - I highly recommend reading through it before starting and watching my video explanation too. It requires reading cable charts, knitting multiple different cables in each row, cabling at different rates, decreasing that moves placement, increasing, and seaming with mattress stitch. All pieces are knit flat and seamed. All cable charts are at the end of the notes.
Abbreviations:
CO - Cast On
CN - Cable Needle
K - Knit
KFB - Knit front and back - Knit into front of stitch, without removing from needles, knit into back of the same stitch. One stitch increased.
K2tog - Knit two together
M1 - Make one knit stitch - Insert the left needle tip under the bar between stitches, from front to back, lifting it onto the needle. Knit this new loop through the back. 1 st increased.
M1P - Make 1 purl - Insert the left needle tip under the bar between stitches, from front to back, lifting it onto the needle. Purl this new loop through the back. 1 st increased.
P - Purl
P2tog - Purl two together
PM - Place marker
RS - Right Side
Sl - Slip
SSK - Slip as if to knit, slip as if to knit, knit these two together
St(s) - Stitch
WS - Wrong Side
Cardigan Fronts:
Starting with the Right front side:
Using Twisted German Cast On, CO: 56 sts.
*K1, P1* to end of row.
Knit in 1x1 ribbing for 8 total rows.
Establish Cables:
Next row is a RS row, you will start the cable patterning now - pay very close attention to the large diamond cable placement, stitch markers may be useful in separating your cables on the row.
NOTE: this row the large diamond cable chart starts at row 43.
RS: K1, P1, 2st left cable, P1, 2st left cable, P2, 6st flat braid, P2, 28st diamond, P1, 4st left cable P2, K3, P1= 56 sts
Body:
Knit in pattern until body reaches 11 inches from CO edge.
V neck shaping:
When 11 inches from CO edge, you will decrease one stitch 4 every rows until 16 sts are removed.
Further explanation of decreases follows- do not forget to decrease for the arm hole while completing the v neck decreases, noted as “at the same time”.
V neck shaping Row 1 RS: Knit in pattern to the first st of the 6st flat braid, SSK, knit in pattern to end of row. 1 st decreased.
Rows 2-4: Knit in pattern to end of row.
Continue knitting 1 decrease row, and 3 rows in pattern following special instructions below.
Special Instructions For V Neck Decreases:
The decreases change position throughout the v neck always working from the neckline side of the cable towards the side of the body.
- Start by decreasing out the 6st flat braid.
- When the braid has been completely decreased, you will have 4 purl sts before the large diamond. Decrease these purls until there is one purl remaining before the 2 st cables.
- Next decrease the inner 2st cable. When this cable is completely decreased, there will be 2 purl sts before the large diamond.
- Decrease one purl.
- Next, decrease the last 2 st cable.
- After decreasing the last 2 stitch cable, decrease remaining sts down to one stitch before the diamond.
For right side front - when decreasing a knit stitch, SSK.
For left side front - when decreasing a knit stitch, K2tog.
Both sides- when decreasing a purl stitch, P2tog.
The last knit stitch of a cable will be treated as a purl when time to decrease it.
At the same time - when 12 inches from cast on edge, next WS row: bind off 4 sts (for under arm) knit in pattern maintaining v neck decreases as necessary.
Right Side Front Cont.
When all decreases are complete you should have 36 sts remaining.
The next WS row after the last v neck decrease starts the short rows, maintain the center diamond cable as is throughout short rows.
-WS: bind off 8, knit in pattern to end of row
-RS: knit in pattern to end of row
-WS: bind off 10, knit in pattern to end of row
-RS: knit in pattern to end of row, continue neckline side cabling
-WS: bind off 10, knit in pattern to end of row
-RS: knit in pattern to end of row, continue neckline side cabling
-WS: bind off remaining sts, cut yarn
Left Side Front:
Using Twisted German Cast On, CO: 56 sts. *K1, P1* to end of row.
Knit in 1x1 ribbing for 8 total rows.
Next row is a RS row, you will establish your cables now.
NOTE: the large diamond cable chart starts at row 43.
Establish cables: P1, K3, P2, 4st right cable, P1, 28st diamond, P2, 6st flat braid, P2, 2st right cable, P1, 2st right cable, P1, K1 = 56 sts
Knit in pattern until body reaches 11 inches from CO edge and begin neckline shaping following same details above. At the same time, at 12 inches from CO edge, bind off the first 4 sts on the right side. When all decreases are complete you should have 36 sts remaining.
Complete the last v neck decrease row. The next RS row starts the short rows, maintain the center diamond cable as is throughout short rows.
-RS: bind off 8, knit in pattern to end of row
-WS: knit in pattern to end of row
-RS: bind off 10, knit in pattern to end of row
-WS: knit in pattern to end of row, continue neckline side cabling
-RS: bind off 10, knit in pattern to end of row
-WS: knit in pattern to end of row, continue neckline side cabling
-RS: bind off remaining sts, cut yarn
Back panel:
Using Twisted German Cast On, CO: 118 sts. *K1, P1* to end of row.
Knit in 1x1 ribbing for 8 total rows.
Next row is a RS row, you will establish your cables now.
NOTE: the large diamond cable chart starts at row 43.
P1, K3, P2, 4st right cable, P1, 28st diamond, P1, 4st right cable, P1, 28st diamond, P1, 4st left cable, P1, 28st diamond, P1, 4st left cable, P2, K3, P1 = 118 sts
Knit in pattern until body reaches 12 inches from cast on edge.
Next RS row: bind off 4 sts, knit in pattern to end of row.
WS row: bind off 4 sts, knit in pattern to end of row.
8 sts total decreased for under arm, 4 each side.
New width is 110 sts, continue knitting in pattern to 20” from cast on edge or 8 additional inches.
Next RS row: Bind off 28 center neck sts (center diamond only), knit in pattern to end of row.
You will now be working each shoulder individually.
Left Side Shoulder:
You have just finished the RS row and bind off the center neck stitches, there are 41 sts for the left shoulder.
WS: knit in pattern to end of shoulder.
RS: bind off 2 sts, knit in pattern to end of shoulder.
Repeat once more.
WS: knit in pattern to end of shoulder.
RS: bind off 1 st, knit in pattern to end of shoulder.
You should have 36 sts, begin short rows as follows.
The next WS row after the last neckline decrease starts the short rows, maintain the center diamond cable as is throughout short rows.
-WS: bind off 8, knit in pattern to end of row
-RS: knit in pattern to end of row
-WS: bind off 10, knit in pattern to end of row
-RS: knit in pattern to end of row, continue neckline side cabling
-WS: bind off 10, knit in pattern to end of row
-RS: knit in pattern to end of row, continue neckline side cabling
-WS: bind off remaining sts, cut yarn
Right Side Shoulder:
Starting on the neckline edge of the WS.
WS: bind off 2 sts, knit in pattern to end of shoulder.
RS: knit in pattern to end of shoulder.
Repeat once more.
WS: bind off 1 st, knit in pattern to end of shoulder.
RS: knit in pattern to end of shoulder.
WS: knit to end of shoulder
You should have 36 sts, begin short rows, maintaining the center diamond cable as is throughout short rows.
-RS: bind off 8, knit in pattern to end of row
-WS: knit in pattern to end of row
-RS: bind off 10, knit in pattern to end of row
-WS: knit in pattern to end of row, continue neckline side cabling
-RS: bind off 10, knit in pattern to end of row
-WS: knit in pattern to end of row, continue neckline side cabling
-RS: bind off remaining sts, cut yarn
Sleeves: Knit two each, exactly the same.
Using smaller needles and Twisted German Cast On, CO 65 sts. *K1, P1* to end of row.
Knit in 1x1 ribbing for 10 rows.
Next row: *K1, P1, KFB, P1, K1, KFB* (two stitch increased) 10 times. Complete one more increase and knit in pattern any remaining sts to end of row. 21 sts increased, you should have 86 sts.
Next row is a RS row, you will establish your cables now. Switch to larger needle
NOTE: the large diamond cable chart starts at row 43.
P1, 6st Braid, P2, 6st Braid, P2, 4st Cable Right , P2, 4st Cable Right, P2, 28st Diamond, P2, 4st Cable Left, P2, 4st Cable Left, P2, 6st Braid, P2, 6st Braid, P1 = 86 sts
Knit in pattern for 7 rows. We will now begin increases on the edges of the sleeves.
Next RS row: P1, M1P, Knit in pattern to one st before end of row, M1P, P1.
Knit an additional 7 rows in pattern.
Next RS row: P1, M1, P1, Knit in pattern to two st before end of row, P1, M1, P1.
Knit an additional 7 rows in pattern. The newest M1 should be a Knit on the right side.
Next RS row: P1, M1, K1, P1, Knit in pattern to two st before end of row, P1, K1, M1, P1.
Knit an additional 7 rows in pattern. The newest M1 should be a Knit on the right side.
Next RS row: P1, M1, K2, P1, Knit in pattern to two st before end of row, P1, K2, M1, P1.
Your new stitch count is 94 sts. Remain knitting in pattern at 94 sts until you have knit to 18.5 inches from cast on edge or to desired length. Bind off all sts in pattern.
Finishing and neckline:
At this point you should have your individual cardigan pieces. Wash and block each piece ensuring that fronts and sleeves are the same dimensions their pairs.
Sew together your cardigan using mattress stitch.
Starting with the fronts and back panel, sew together the shoulder seams. Next sew the top of each sleeve to the open arm hole, making sure to center the diamond on the shoulder seam. Next sew the sleeves and body to complete the cardigan.
Mark buttonholes:
Before starting the neckline mark your buttonholes on the front right side of the cardigan. Using removable stitch markers, mark .5 inch up from the bottom of the cardigan, 1 inch down from the beginning of the v neck, and place the last stitch marker halfway between these two markers.
Neckline:
Using smaller needles, starting on the front right side, pick up and knit 1 stitch in 4 out of every 5 rows. When you reach the back neck, pick up 1 stitch in every stitch for the center diamond (28 sts). Continue picking up 1 stitch in 4 out of every 5 rows for the rest of the body. This is approximately 270 sts.
Knit in 1x1 ribbing for 5 rows.
Next RS row:
Knit in pattern to first st marker. Bind off 3 sts (or sts necessary to fit your buttons). Knit in pattern to next st marker, bind off 3 sts. Knit in pattern to final st marker and bind off 3 sts. Knit in pattern to end of row.
Next WS row: Knit in pattern until you reach first button hole, cast on 3 sts. Knit in pattern to next button hole, cast on 3 sts. Knit in pattern to last button hole and cast on 3 sts.
Knit an additional 5 rows in pattern. Bind off all sts using Italian bind off.
Cables:
I hope you've enjoyed knitting your TTPD cardigan! Stay in touch:
Instagram: @allisonmarieknits
YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/@allisonmarieknits
Ravelry: Allisonmarieknits
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